Powermatic 66 User Manual Page 16

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  • TROUBLESHOOTING
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16
9. Bevel ripping cuts should always be made
with the fence on the right side of the saw
blade so that the blade tilts away from the
fence and minimizes the possibility of the
work binding and the resulting kickback.
Rip Sawing
1. Ripping is where the work piece is fed with
the grain into the saw blade using the fence
as a guide and a positioning device to
ensure the desired width of cut. See Figure
26.
Before starting a rip cut, be
sure the fence is clamped securely and
aligned properly.
Never rip freehand or use the miter gauge in
combination with the fence.
Never rip workpieces shorter than the saw
blade diameter.
Never reach behind the blade with either
hand to hold down or remove the cutoff
piece with the saw blade rotating.
2. Always use the saw guard, splitter and anti-
kickback pawls. Make sure the splitter is
properly aligned. When wood is cut along
the grain, the kerf tends to close and bind
on the blade and kickbacks can occur.
NOTE: A caution decal is installed on the
guard and splitter assembly, warning of the
hazard of misalignment.
3. The rip fence should be set for the width of
the cut by using the scale on the front rail, or
by measuring the distance between the
blade and fence. See Figure 27. Stand out
of line with the saw blade and workpiece to
avoid sawdust and splinters coming off the
blade or a kickback, if one should occur.
4. If the workpiece does not have a straight
edge, provide one by nailing an auxiliary
straight edged board on it to slide along the
fence. To cut properly, the board must make
good contact with the table. If it is warped,
turn the hollow side down.
5. In ripping, use one hand to hold the board
down against the fence or fixture, and the
other to push it into the blade between the
blade and the fence. If the workpiece is
narrower than 6" or shorter than 12", use a
push stick or push block to push it through
between the fence and saw blade. See
Figure 28.
Figure 26
Figure 27
Figure 28
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